rockfangd

I just went through this on a 90 Silverado last week. Hose was hot coming in, hose going out was cold. Core was plugged on the inlet side. Back flushing resolved this A few thoughts. IIRC the supply comes in on the top of the core. The return is on the bottom and returns in your case to the top of the water pump. I always had air issues with these and purchased a coolant funnel that raises the highest level of coolant which helps to push the air out. Another tip is to raise the front end of the vehicle to raise the height of the highest point. With the coolant funnel hooked up and car running I keep squeezing the hoses until all air is expelled out of the funnel. If you remove the return hose from the water pump and the hose that goes to the core, flush it through and it flows well, then there should not be a blockage

I couldn't find them on GMs site either. I looked hard. Never even mentions them. Car is a virgin though. Nothing seemed to have been touched before other than one of the chrome trims I replaced over 10 years ago

Well... I never did get a picture of the clip. It looks like the one pictured but at the top the clip is larger to fill the hole size on the bumper. The hole size that it clips into is the same. I am excited as I dropped it off today to be painted this week. I see no reason why it is not worth the investment. I will for sure post a few pics when it is all done

Welcome to Caddyinfo. 2 things. Have you tried a second key? The wires for the chip that come from the ignition cylinder are very common to being brittle and breaking. How often do you move the tilt column? May sound like a foolish question but it could explain the fatigue issue with the wiring

Hi All. Hope everyone is well. I am sending my 97 Seville to the body shop in a week. I am having the front bumper, spoiler, and mirrors repainted, and I stripped everything today. I had a few questions regarding the front bumper if anyone might know. There are 2 push clips, 1 on each side that retain the bumper cover to the bumper. They have a larger head than the normal ones, a thicker area that fits into the hole in the cover, but the same push style hole size in the bumper. (I will try to post a pic) I cannot find them anywhere. And I am torn on the chrome. I was wondering if anyone re-chromes plastic trim. They are showing signs of wear, some light scratches, and a few bubbles. Thanks to anyone who may have any info

Too young I imagine for that. Thanks for your response

Hi All. I may have asked this before but do not recall. I currently pay around $500 a year for insurance for my 97 Seville. I only drive it about 3k miles a year. I just took collision off it this year as I felt it was just a waste. Does anyone have any reference of a reputable classic insurance company?

First off Welcome to CaddyInfo. Start with the battery terminals. Although they make look fine they may not be. (assuming it is still side terminal) That would affect you trying to get a jump as well. Bad connection to the battery means also bad cable connection as well If battery connections are done and issue still occurs let us know. If it does trace the negative cable to the engine by the alternator, and by the headlight, but mainly to the engine. Then the positive cable. There should be 2 of them. 1 goes to the starter. the other goes the electrical center forward of the driver side strut tower. Pull the black cover and look for corrosion under the maxifuses. That is where the main cable comes in. As for the radiator, do you see anything leaking? Look for swelling on the tank on the passenger side. If it has swelling there may be hairline cracks in the tank. Other leak sources are heater core(in dash), silicone hoses to the black pipes behind the engine, the black pipes themselves, or worst case pulled head bolts. But we will get into that later

I agree with Logan. If you had the switches like the Eldo and the Seville of this era they were really common to failing. But usually it would either fail up and down or left and right, but not both. I rather doubt it is the mirrors themselves. Other than the heated glass issue I have never had motors fail on them Welcome To CaddyInfo

I was afraid of that. The radio unit outputs to the receiver, the receiver outputs to the speakers. Same as my 97s

I believe yours may still be a 2 din regular radio. I love my 2 din android radio I put in my Tundra. Works very nicely and was not too expensive. Brand is Hizpo (off brand) but been trouble free since install. Touch screen, bluetooth, apps, etc...

I will see what I have. May take a few weeks but will post back

Will take a pic. Update is Good. Ride is excellent. Body height is perfect now

I never did post my replacement for my bike... Been riding this one since September. I actually bought it in August even though I could not ride it then. I have ridden it every time I possibly can. Gets twice the mileage as the cars too lol. 2005 Yamaha VStar 1100. 18k when I bought it. Just over 20k now. Cleans up like a pearl. Well taken care of. 1st pic is when it came home. Rest are my setup as of today. Even got a shot of the Seville. May we all be thankful and enjoy our Memorial Day Weekend

Thats not a bad idea. You may find something obvious. I went to my local yard looking for a few parts but as huge as the yard is, there were no caddys ranging from 80s-90s. Just 05+. There used to be tons of them back in the day

Well after all my useless research, time, and resources I gave up and decided to do it my way. I did one side yesterday and the other today. I cut one top rung off each spring and reassembled. It was just a hunch based on measurements and common sense. It went together nicely. Ride height is just a little high empty but perfect with a regular load. Handling is substantially improved. Steering wheel is perfectly centered again. I actually had to readjust my seat and mirrors again as they were now too low. I am going to be keeping an eye out for a used oem set but for now I can at least tolerate driving it. I was ready to sell the car. Parts are so hard to find. Parts say they fit but do not. I did thoroughly inspect my work before I decided to cut the springs. They were properly seated top and bottom.

Today I managed to take a measurement from the ground to the fender at each corner. Front is 28" height Rear is 30". I want to try to have a better look at it tomorrow to make sure the springs are seated properly. I am also going to check the FSM and see if it mentions what the trim height is supposed to be. I know it mentions the air ride, but this is not an air ride issue.

Bump for any ideas on this. I am so stumped. I deeply regret throwing out the old springs. I feel like my era have fallen off the face of the earth. Parts are so hard to find for these

Excellent. Glad to hear. Like I said before I must have missed the original thread. Thanks for updating this

I could help more if this was the 99, but I will try to help I do not know which tranny they used on those, Whether they are electronically controlled in the early 90s. Is the coolant getting up to temperature? At least 170*f. If the coolant is not getting to temp it will not go into overdrive. Not sure that a fluid and filter change would help but it sure couldn't hurt. Should not be very difficult. Inspect solenoids while you have the pan off. I have seen things hit the pan and break solenoids

Dead topic possibly. Will see if OP returns

Hmm. Not sure. This is the 99 Deville right? Engine light on? Has it ever thrown the Torque convertor death code P0741? Please give me the engine RPMs at cruising speed 55mph flat. 42 mph flat. Engine up to temp. Engine revolutions should drop at 41 mph if cruising. From about 1500 down to about 1300. I will compare what you provide with my 97 Deville.

What was the inquiry? I may have missed it

It does sound like the car has been sitting. Unless the tick is bad it may clear up on its own. You have to figure if it has been sitting that the oil has not been to the top end in awhile. A shot of marvel mystery oil may help to clear any sludge. Is the engine running ok? Or does it feel like it has a shudder? If it runs fine disregard the tune up stuff for now until you are better able to do so. Tires need to be judged by someone experienced. If they are aged badly you could have one unexpectedly fail. A door key should not be expensive. It is the ignition key that can be pricy (if it has pats, chip) If the body and underside are clean and it runs and drives it was not too bad a deal. When you buy a car that is 30 years old you have to expect a list of age related repairs. I highly doubt you will get anything back for the car. People are not generally as reasonable, especially if you did not deal with the actual owner This might sound crazy but I have dealt with buying, restoring, selling, and enjoying cars all my life, the worst ones I bought had the lowest miles. I swear that's no joke. My 200k-300k beaters are my best running and most reliable. Welcome to CaddyInfo