rockfangd

Hi All. I am trying not to part with my 1997 Deville. I am thinking of parking it for the short term, at least until the economy improves. Anyway I need a used original set of rear springs to replace a broken one. I also am looking for a good original downstream cat. If anyone has anything that might help please let me know. No hurry. If I can get the parts I might weld the unibody and try to make it last a little longer. Thanks

I have them on my 97 Deville. They are ok for that, but I don't want to run these on this one.

Welcome Back. I suggest replacing the coolant temp sensor. I say this in reading the original thread and replies that followed. Hot and cold swings over time, bumps and bangs, etc... can have an effect on a sensors ability to be accurate. Ie resistance value slightly off. Do not go with aftermarket if at all possible. I have not had good luck with them being accurate

Well I decided I am going to replace compressor with a oem one with a new dryer. Going to have to reinstall the air shocks. Fingers crossed.

Could you be more specific? Like oem one or aftermarket You may be on to something. If I can replace the lines with aftermarket I may be able to do whatever I want, just need to figure out compressor side

Check the water pump belt. You would be surprised how many mechanics do not know it is on the driver side. The pulley and or tensioner can seize up and break the belt or not put enough tension on the belt. Does the car overheat when idling? Or only when driving? Sometimes the water pump can seize, but rarely have I seen it happen. Located at the driver side of the engine, Can see the tensioner between the radiator fans and the engine. On mine it is right by the torque strut Trying not to be suspicious of head bolts until I know more. But the more it overheats the more a chance that will/has happened. When it overheats I assume it boils over?

Thank You. Am getting excited as the weather starts to change

Still thinking on this one. I am so temped to put a compressor in the trunk, Make my own extension harness, and run one line from compressor in trunk to a Tee underneath to split to each side. Being these lines are so small it is difficult to find anything.

I did forget to mention I live and work in NY. Changes everything lol. If I don't have to evacuate a system I won't. Sometimes I have bought the clutch and coil but had to change the whole compressor. Other times I have bought the whole thing but have been able to swap the components over. Mixed bag of crap as to how it goes. Broken bolts, rust, you name it... I do not make more money no matter how I do it. Just work

Welcome to CaddyInfo. Very likely you do need a new compressor. It may be just the clutch that failed, but when the clutch goes it can lock the compressor on and contaminates the system. If you got really lucky the clutch failed and did not take out the compressor. Sadly more times than not I see contamination throughout the system. There is a quick test to tell you if compressor failed internally. Try to turn the inner part of the clutch. Outer side is the pulley, inner side is the clutch. If the inner part turns then you may have got lucky. But if the clutch does not turn then the compressor seized If system got contaminated it would need orifice tube, compressor, receiver/dryer, and possibly condenser. If system is not contaminated I would still replace the entire compressor

Well I saw many J Bodies that the subframes fell out of. So many Bonneville's and Lesabre's. I have welded unibodies and subframes on them before, But I do not typically recommend it because of other major issues, and longevity of the repair. Happy to say that I have never seen it happen on a E/K yet. This would be the first one

Hi All. So torn here as to what to do with my 97 D'Elegance. I love it but I just can't stop the rust. This year has brought out more rust than usual. (tons of salt on the roads) The Good about the car. Engine runs flawlessly, Transmission shifts like butter, car rides beautiful despite its issues, body is still solid despite the popup surface rust, interior (like all my vehicles) is like new, all functions fine The Bad and ugly. ABS unit is bad and no easy fix in my near future. I have it rigged just to keep the lights off. Rear cradle rotted away at the insulators that go between the body and cradle. I temporarily repaired this a year or so ago. Left rear coil spring is broken, The unibody is rotting at the rear left of the front subframe. (somehow has not separated yet) It just hit 175k miles. I still drive it daily. The way things have been going I cannot really afford to replace it, so it would not be replaced for now. I really love my Deville. I bought this one after I replaced my 96 Deville. The car that replaced my 96 Deville just did not satisfy me. So torn here. This car was ready for the junkyard when I bought it, I restored it the best I could and it has been a great ride. Any thoughts? I thought about looking for another one but they are difficult to find and it is like starting all over lol

Depends on the State. Airbags were a big question. I would check the subframe well, check where the subframe mounts to the unibody to make sure it looks straight. If the subframe is aluminum it would not hurt to look for cracks. If airbags went off then that may have been enough to total it

I am contemplating trying the Arnott one for a 2002 Deville. Looks like the same unit except the electrical plug and the 2 ear mount. They do not offer one for the E/K platform

original units failed because the exhaust valves failed. I repaired some but usually still short lived. Aftermarket ones the main hot wire fails just inside the motor. Must be a weak connection there. Power comes to motor but no response from motor. It is on its second Dorman one and they both failed in the same way. I had replaced the shocks and lines when I installed the first one.

Hi All. I have had several Cadillacs over the years, and they all seem to share the same issue with the air ride compressor failure. I finally replaced the shocks on one of mine with the coilover conversion shocks. I was hoping I would like them but I do not. Car was on its third air compressor failure and I got tired of crawling around under the car working to replace it. I am strongly considering reinstalling the Arnott shocks I had installed, relocating the compressor to a useful spot, and getting the system working again. I am willing to try aftermarket setups if it is reliable. The air lines are not 1/8" though. They are actually smaller. 4mm?? 1/8 is the typical size. So I would have to get conversion unions or replace the lines all the way to the shocks. Car I am looking to entertain this for is my 1997 Seville. Thanks all

Beautiful car by the pics. I would say it depends on how it ended up with a salvage title. If it was an accident it may or may not have been fixed properly (Covered up). I have bought vehicles with salvage titles. Preferably cheap and knowing some history

If more people were like him the dealers would be more reasonable. Right now there is little to no negotiating

Hello. I do believe they are the same. Only from the W-Body worked on the Caddys iirc. I had my Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme rims on my 96 Deville in the winter with no problems. Rim size should be 16" by 6.5 38mm offset. 4.5" lug pattern

Truly is a crazy market. I have not seen anything quite like this. That sounds like some good taste though. Just driving that would make others want it

Thank you. I actually have one. Not sure as they do not work quite like other saginaw columns. The contact for the lights is not in the switch, believe it triggers the relay to turn on the lights. I will swap it out this weekend

Hi all. Have not had the greatest luck with my Deville this year. I went to leave this morning. No headlights. Highs or lows. Headlight switch says they are supposed to be on but nothing worked. Parking lights all work. I drove the car anyway as the sun was just starting to come up. Halfway to work I turned on the right turn signal and bam they came on. I never even turned the steering wheel... Tonight I inspected the electrical center and no matter what problem would not reoccur. It is not the ground as that takes out all front lights. I cleaned it again anyway. I am at a loss. This is the second time this did this. Same exact issue. I see the C relay for the high/low headlights that seems to be the only one to have both in common. I am going to order one, but nothing I did made the problem reoccur. This car is no stranger to electrical gremlins right from the day I bought it. I resolved everything but this one. Any insight is much appreciated. Thank You

STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS S558 Available on Rockauto. Hope this helps

Well I could not find the clips anywhere. I ended up reusing the original one. Were ok as I carefully removed them. Got car put away night before salt and brine went down on the roads. Hope it looks as good when I pull it out in the spring.

the OP states a very different temp feel between the 2 hoses to the heater core. Thermostat is not a bad thought either. Have been waiting for the OP to respond to know where to proceed