Phillip

The RS0038 code is the Electronic Level Control Exhaust Valve Short to Ground/Open. I thought that this might be the problem, however removing the fuse for this circuit did not solve the problem. The IR2255 code relates to the audio system. The information is sketchy on this one but since it was in history and did not return when I cleared it I don't really know where to go with it. I think I mentioned earlier the radio/phone fuse is the only one that affected the current and the drain virtually disappeared without this fuse. This circuit controls a number of items but of most interest is the high beam relay. Hmmm. Anyway, the reason I suspect the PZM is that I thought it would shut down any items that are left on. This is clearly not happening. Further, while monitoring the drain, relays will sometimes click all by themselves and the load will change. I suspect the PZM may be sending signals to these relays without being asked to. I will keep looking. Thanks for the tips.

Well the saga continues. I spent some time diagnosing the car tonight. I checked the codes and all except 2 can be explained by the disconnect of the battery. I also got an IR2255 and RS0038. I cleared all the codes and only the RS0038 returned. I have had this for a while and have not had a chance to fix it, so I don't think it is relevant. While I was checking the codes, I went in to the PZM inputs, outputs and overrides. This stuff is amazing. I doubt it makes much of a difference, but is was certainly interesting controlling so many of the cars functions through the computer diagnostic system. What I did find, was continued erratic behaviour. The draw on the batter varies from 2.0 A to 0.26 A. It seems to me that the car just will not shut down. As I understand, it is the responsibility of the PZM (body control module) to shut the different systems off. If this is true, it must the the PZM that is causing the problem. Does this make sense? Is there some conclusive test I can perform with just meter and basic diagnostic tools? Phillip

Thanks for the suggestions. I got the car running by putting in a different battery. This allowed me to get to my garage to start the diagnosis. I started with the amp meter test. I think I am zeroing in on the problem. The the car at rest (ie. at least 10 minutes without touching it) there is a draw of 1.79 amps. This should draw the battery down pretty quick! When I removed the radio/phone fuse in the trunk, the drain settled down to 0.02 amps. None of the other fuses seemed to make a difference, so I guess I have to start looking at this circuit. It includes the radio reciever, radio interface module, DAB Relay????, trunk release relay, fuel door release relay and high beam relay. I will let you know how it goes and am always open for suggestions. Thanks again, Phillip

The battery is being drained even though the car is turned off. I had this problem before and while I had a lot of help diagnosing the problem, it stopped before I could find the problem. The title of the thread was "Battery being Drained" and it was dated June 10, 2006. I tried to link to it but I am not that savy with this stuff. In any case, the problem is back with a vengence. A fully charged battery can be discharged overnight. I left the car for the weekend and went to start it today and when I tried to boost it, it nearly melted my booster cables. Even with that much current, the car wouldn't start. The lights wouldn't even come on. Now I am stumped. Any idea where I should start looking?