navion

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About navion

  • Rank
    Old Timer (500+ posts)
  • Birthday 05/29/1948

Previous Fields

  • Car Model and Year
    Seville SLS 2003
  • Engine
    Northstar 4.6L V8 (LD8/L37)

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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Southern Illinois
  • Interests
    Cars, Planes (Navions), Boats (1933 Dodge), John Deere 2 cylinder tractors (620 and 730 propane powered), Shooting & Gun Collecting. (I used to say women, but they are to d--n expensive!!)
  1. Possibly a power steering pump going bad, or just low on fluid.
  2. My 94 SLS had the same leaking oil problem. I tried cleaning the area and applying a high temp RTV sealant to all of the relevant areas. My advice is to forget about this approach. It will result in minor blood loss from the back of your hands from working in tight places and NO difference in the oil leaks. I later switched the engine oil to Pennzoil High Mileage that comes in copper colored containers. While changing the oil type didn't cure all the leaks, it did seem to decrease the severity. Instead of a large puddle on the garage floor, the puddle was much smaller. As I said, the Pennzoil High Mileage didn't cure it completely, but it did lessen the leak to something that I could live with. The reduction in leakage amount wasn't immediate, but by the second oil change with the High Mileage oil I began to notice that the amount of oil on the garage floor was significantly less. If you read the label propaganda on the High Mileage oil, it says that it has an ingredient that causes seals and gaskets to swell slightly, helping to control leaks. I was very skeptical of that claim, but thought that I would try it. As I said, it didn't completely cure the leakage, but it did bring it down to a level that I could live with. The High Mileage oil is slightly more expensive, but not prohibitive. If I were you, I would give it a try. Good Luck, Britt
  3. Check to see if your car has a vacuum brake booster. If it does, I believe that your car does not have the "hydroboost" unit. If you see hydraulic lines running from the power steering pump to the brake booster, then I believe that you would indeed have the "hydroboost" system.
  4. In my experience, a transmission flush is a bad idea. Especially if there are no issues with the transmission. This particular Cadillac dealer seems to be an exceptional one, passing up an opportunity to perform an unneeded service! Follow KHE's advice and drain & refill the transmission. Then reset the transmission life display on the DIC. NEVER flush a properly operating transmission. It is a device to generate income for repair shops and can cause more problems than it solves.
  5. Mike, I see that you referenced cleaning terminals with emery (emory). Abrasives made from emery are conductive and the dust can cause high tension arcing to ground. I use maroon Scotchbrite for such tasks.
  6. Mike, I would replace the inline fuel filter before I did anything else. If the owner got one tank of contaminated fuel, it could be partially plugged. It does not matter if the filter was changed last year or last month. A partially plugged filter would still allow the pressure to be read, but the restriction may contribute to the lean conditions that you describe. I would do this first as it is relatively cheap and easily changed. I had a similar problem on my '94 SLS Nstar. When I removed the inline filter, I found that it was full of fine sand. Take Care, Britt
  7. As a rule of thumb, the lead cylinder on GM engines is the #1 cylinder. By lead cylinder, I mean that if you look at the "front" of the engine, meaning the end opposite from where the transmission/trans axel bolts on. You will notice that one cylinder head is slightly forward of the other. The forward head side contains cylinders #1, #3, #5, #7. .
  8. I would not change the viscosity that you have been using. The engine in your Cadillac is designed for that weight oil. Remember, once your engine is running and up to temperature, it dosen't know if it is in Florida or in the Finger Lakes! The 5 weight aspect of your oil helps insure lubrication during the critical time following a cold start in any climate. If you were North of the Artic Circle, I would think about a 0-20 weight. I hope that you enjoy Florida. Britt
  9. No one told the North Koreans that the casket is supposed to go INSIDE the hearse!
  10. The very first thing that I would do would be to change the fuel filter. The next thing would be to check the fuel pressure at the engine. It is possible that the fuel pump is failing.
  11. Another CAUTION! If a rim is badly corroded, exceeding the recommended pressure is an invitation to a potential disaster! If you have ever seen one of these rims that has bee broken in an accident, you would be very careful with the inflation pressures. The cross section thickness is not much. 80 or 90 psi may work OK on a good rim, but a corroded rim may blow with the force of a hand-grenade.
  12. One question and a caution. The question: Has anyone had any luck with "SLIME" tire sealant? The caution: Were taught to never use steel wire brushes to clean aluminum. Stainless steel or bronze brushes were OK. The reason is that small particles will transfer from the brush and imbed into the wheel. The imbedded steel particles will rust and cause a corrosion problem of their own. That kind of corrosion will eventually ruin the aluminum part.
  13. OOPS!, I was confusing my present '03 SLS with the '94 SLS! My apologies.
  14. I'm assuming that you just bought this vehicle. The very first thing that I would do is get the battery checked and replace it if it is the LEAST bit questionable. A marginal battery in these vehicles will give the computers all kinds of headaches! The best battery is the Delco, which is original equipment. If unable to find one, my next choice would be to go to Sam's Club and get one of their Energizer batteries. NOTE: As these batteries are located under the rear seat, the battery HAS to be the manifold vented kind. Do not let anyone convince you otherwise. As for the oil leak, the early Northstars were notorious for seeping oil. My 94 Seville SLS had that malady. The proper fix is to have the engine removed and the lower crank case resealed. The cost of this "fix" could easily exceed what you paid for the car. What I did was switch to Pennzoil High Mileage 10w30 oil. While it did not "cure" the leak, it reduced the amount substantially. My SLS went from leaving small puddles to a few drips. I always kept a sheet of cardboard in the garage to catch the drips. My '94 SLS was the most comfortable car that I have ever owned. It was more comfortable than the 2003 SLS that I have now. Good Luck with your new car. If it rides anything like my '94 SLS, you will enjoy it.
  15. I had a 1994 SLS that seemed really strong and got very good mileage. I replaced it with a 2003 SLS. The 2003 is not as strong as the 1994 and the mileage is not quite as good. BUT the 2003 will run on regular while the '94 was much happier with premium fuel. The bottom line is that the 2003 has a better MPD, (miles per dollar) than the '94. Other than not being as strong as the '94, my main complaint is that the 2003 seats aren't nearly as comfortable as the '94's were.