airmike

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About airmike

  • Rank
    CaddyInfo Reader
  • Birthday 10/12/1956

Previous Fields

  • Car Model and Year
    1999 sts/2006 xlr-v/2000 ws6 ta
  • Engine
    4.4L S/C V8

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  • Website URL
    http://
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    0

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    kansas
  • Interests
    basketball-pool-cars

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  1. annie151, sorry to not reply for so long. I haven't been active for a while. I can't answer about the passenger seat. I no longer have the car and didn't get it repaired before it left.
  2. I'm so glad this thread got back on track. I had my own experience with Jake, and really like him. But I understand the frustration. How far do you have to tilt that engine to get the head back on after studs are installed? Must be a lot! Kevin how did you get the car high enough to remove the cradle?
  3. You said you have a power seat diagnostic chart. Thank you also. Mike

    1. Show previous comments  1 more
    2. airmike

      airmike

      yes thank you. I was about to print it, but my print preview doesn't show but one page. I can take a pic with my phone though.

       

    3. BodybyFisher

      BodybyFisher

      Ok, cool, hope it helps

    4. BodybyFisher

      BodybyFisher

      I find the GMsi to be cumbersome to share.  Great info, but tough to share here.   Let me know if you need anything

  4. Well the u-1161 is there, so I'm still thinking passenger seat wiring.
  5. update on the seat power Well I got the wires under the driver seat repaired and seat put back it. Man that sucker is HEAVY. So now I have a passenger rear window that works and the driver seat now works. The Passenger front window, driver rear window and tilt steering wheel still don't work. I am planning to remove the passenger seat and look at the wiring there next, any other ideas? Mike, I never did get the schematics from your previous post to show. I guess when I go back out I will run the codes again also. At least I can stand to drive the car again now. Just in time I would say, the weather has turned into the north pole here. The trans am, and the ats-v both have summer tires on them and are best left inside currently.
  6. Mike those links don't work for me.
  7. Its not a big deal to unbolt that flange and drive a mile or less. You will know instantly if it's clogged. The first time you give it any gas, it will actually accelerate Plan on new bolts though. You wont need to drive long enough to get anything hot.
  8. Yes I guess that is a connector in the middle picture, though I don't really understand. The wires from the top picture laid in the channel of that connector though I can't see any reason for a junction there. I also found the same on two orange wires now repaired. One of the 4 wires was not broken, so what is the point of that connector? Why would it be placed in the middle of a complete wire? I will check the passenger side now. I have in the past had water on that side and cleaned the sun roof drains and thought that was over. The drivers side was wet so must have gotten plugged again. I did get the passenger rear window to work without the seat connected FYI. Others not working though, the reason for the question. Tilt wheel not working either. Yes memory seats too. Off to work, I'll report back. thanks some more.
  9. Well I finally got that seat out. Cut the wires to the motor and jumped it there to move it forward. I took a picture of the tan wire connector. I put the seat back in and still didn't work, so google being my friend, found that there are more wires that have the same connector and same result. These were the orange wires, just barely out of the plastic channel and a little more of a chore to get stripped and solder/shrink connected. The question I have now is, can the steering wheel, passenger window etc. operate without connecting the seat wiring back. I am guessing not. OCT the fuses were double checked and even swapped to known good. I did get to check all the wires now and am sure the ones out of the loom, and carpet are all good. I repaired the tan wires and then checked the codes, and not checked since repairing the orange. the u1161 is current...u1163 history
  10. Thanks guys, that is what I was looking for. I don't have a wiring connector that will fit, but maybe the salvage yard can help with that. Its either that or cut the wire and use that connector and then repair when done. I was thinking that should be the correct motor. I did see the tan and lt green wires out of that motor, and then following them towards a module that I can't see the plugs. I cannot follow the main power wire in, all the way to the connector to see if it has broken, so I intend to get that seat out! I haven't made it back out to the shop but I'll update when I get the chance to go at it again. thanks again
  11. old cad tech The wire you are talking about being broke is where it goes into the module? very close to connector? Would that wire do the same? I have seen video of the wire under the carpet that is probably the same wire only upline of that connector? I am having a lot of trouble getting to the wiring, where I can actually see anything. That phone camera can get where my head can't. Trying to follow the wires where I can't get my head/eyes is a problem. I guess I shoulda explained a little better. the scotch locks were to see if I could get the seat to move sending power straight to the motor, though I am not positive that is even the correct motor to move it forward. I realize they are not good for the wiring, however I need the seat to move forward so I can remove it! The fuses are all good under the hood as well as the back seat and the relays have been traded with known good. When I do get the seat moved and removed I intend to use shrink connectors on all places I have butchered lol or find broken. I didn't run the codes. yeah I know. The seat steering wheel and all other than driver windows all worked until the day they all stopped together. The main purpose of this post is to get the seat to move forward, to later do the repairs. I doubt the actual switch that moves the seat back and forth will effect the windows etc..., but I know a module does. The orange wire that I believe comes up out of the carpet, has around 11 v, so I figured the ground was broke and I could complete the circuit to ground long enough to move seat forward. Perhaps the power wire is broken on up toward the module and connector, though I CANNOT see that mess.
  12. I have a dilemma. My drivers seat is not working, along with power tilt wheel and all windows other than drivers front. Having read about this problem I am convinced I have a bad connection under the drivers seat. Not a problem, I'll take the seat out and get to it. Wrong. The seat is in the exit position, fully back, and covering one of the bolts that holds the seat in the car. So I take the seat bottom cushion loose so I can get to the wiring. I figure I'll either, ground the main ground into the harness via jumper to battery or body or send power to the motor that will move seat forward to remove it. I have failed in this attempt. I tried using the connectors that you don't cut the wire to attach. No success so I finally cut the ground wire and grounded it straight to the battery. Still can't move the seat. Any ideas are welcome. Oh yes 99 sevlle sts. I have a pic of the area under the cushion here to check out.
  13. Thought I'd share this car I found on another forum.
  14. That's what I was thinking, the pdr timer starts when you actually push the pedal or release the brake? and the track timer only after the car actually breaks the beam. Having checked out the guys on ats forum I am slightly disappointed in the mph. I have seen 114-116 over there. I don't know what that means though. Temp was 75 degrees. I was intending to lower tire pressure in the rear, to see if I could lower that 60ft time, but just too many cars there. Today they are having the final points race, so many of the regular racers were there getting dialed in. With the tire pressure normal, it seems there is only .1 difference in my recorder times on the street vs at the track, which is very nice. I could definitely feel that .1 though . One thing I saw that amazed me, a diesel 4x4 ford that went 11.70 wow.
  15. Bruce, no on launch control. I really haven't played with it very much and haven't figured that out yet. Being the second one staged made it hard to get staged and the rpm where I wanted it, and then find the light. They start the tree very soon after the second car stages. The second run was actually supposed to be at 2500 rpm launch, but I guess I let off slightly when I looked up for the tree. They both ended up around 2000, unless I missed on the first one lol, I forgot the pdr on the first run. I had it on, until someone ran off the track when I was next in line and it was 5-10 minutes before we got called. Mike the track was not slick at all. I think it doesn't look so shiny in the daylight. I also had my lights off both runs, don't know if that would make it look different. Yes auto. I consider myself a pretty good "grabber of gears", but no chance I could hit em that fast or accurate, though it would be fun to try. In my trans am, I would be afraid of breaking things dropping the clutch there. I have never taken it in the 13 years I have owned it, and its only 45 minutes to the track. Maybe I should take it, and break something, that would get me to make it faster!