mike27513

Registered
  • Content count

    63
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About mike27513

  • Rank
    Fanatic (50+ posts)

Previous Fields

  • Car Model and Year
    2003 Deville DHS, 2004 XLR
  • Engine
    Northstar 4.6L V8 (LD8/L37)

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Raleigh, NC
  1. I recently had a similar code on my '98. Found an ever so slightly corroded connecter under the passenger seat (near the rear left corner). Pulling back the lock tab, then yanking it on/off about a dozen times scrubbed it clean - no issues since. Plugs near the floor level area are usually good suspects to start with, since they're subject to moisture, etc. Thanks for the quick advice. I found connectors underneath the Driver's seat which I cycled on and off, made sure the connectors were on securely. The airbag light is currently off, so time and mileage will tell if that was the problem. Best Regards
  2. Hello all, I have annoying problem with my 03 Deville DHS @ 95K miles. When the car hits a pothole or hard bump the airbag light comes on. The code read is SDM B0041 which I researched is Side Deployment Module circuit open loop. Clearing the codes doesn't turn off the Airbag Light. After a few trips the airbag light goes off so by itself. BTW, The car has never been in a accident. I would guess either there is connector problem or a sensor is going bad. Anyone else experience this or have a solution? Any wiring diagrams would be appreciated before I start tearing apart the car looking for things. Thanks again.
  3. When I worked for Ericsson [10+ years], I was amazed at the amount of Taxes Europeans love to pay. In the US taxes are about $0.60/ gallon. In Europe $4+/gallon. The taxes are more than the gas itself in some countries.
  4. Just Part of Obama's Hope and Change Economy! Just wait till he gets his Carbon taxes like Europe with an additional $3.00/gallon. As he told the SF Chronicle in Jan 2008 "Under my plan of a cap and trade system, energy rates would necessarily skyrocket." Also his Energy Sec. Chu In December 2008 told the Wall Street Journal, “Somehow we have to figure out how to boost the price of gasoline to the levels in Europe.” Mission Accomplished
  5. I have the same question. The problem is small sample sizes in each person's experience. It would be useful if there was statistically valid industry information from GM or a large independent repair chain as to the frequency of HG issues. [in my case I have my own small sample size experiment owning an 04 XLR and my 03 Deville.] I think the DTS is the best road car out there for the price, but do the 05-11 Devilles/DTS have any higher than average HG repair concerns? But Saying that- all of my 2 Towncars / 2 Explorers/ 1 Expedition 4.6 &5.4L have been issue free for the engines from 1995-2011, some transmission problems though . All of the 3.5L GM engines in my daughter's G6 and son's Malibu cars have had no engine issues so far with 160K total miles.
  6. Check Ebay there are ones for $90 or less on there [one for $25]. You also may want to look at your local Craig's list for someone parting out a compatible Deville in your area. Last Week I bought a complete Driver Side Mirror Assembly unit for my 03 DHS for $50 on Ebay. The Caddy Dealer wanted $300+ for just the internal Mirror Assembly [ My mirror glass was cracked in a parking lot, so all I needed was the glass]. You may have to look for a while to see what comes available.
  7. My 03 Deville had/has the same issue at 70K miles P0741 sets when I am driving uphill between 45-55 up a steep hill usually with a full passenger load and cruise control on. I can feel the torque converter clutch disengage and see the RPM's increase on the Tach. If I travel faster than 60-65 this issue doesn't occur. So I have been resetting the code so far with no significant problems for an additional 20K miles. Anyone know what the true cause is. The Solenoid getting weak or something else?
  8. Thanks for your experience . I will be trying the Rotella Synth. 5W-40 in my 03 DHS as a trial.
  9. The guru said it was perfectly OK to use the 15W-40 Rotella/Delo/Delvac diesel oils in the older Northstars without roller cam followers. I use Rotella 10W-30 in my '97 STS and my Fleetwood Brougham. Thanks for the info. this is some the feedback I was hoping to hear. Did it also apply to 2000+ N* or was there a Viscosity concern with later N* designs?
  10. While I agree with most of your comments, I will take exception to the Oil temperatures. I have been in vehicles with oil temperature gauges and sure enough it does get that high. Coolant temp doesn't measure the actual instantaneous Oil temp at the bearing surfaces, or Oil temp on the Cylinder walls [inside the Engine Cylinder during Power Stroke combustion cycle can be over 1500F]. Oil is used to help cool the engine as well as lubricate. In some Formula One racing applications ,18000 RPM use, Oil [typically 50 or 60W] will be preheated before the race and temp controlled at over 220F . I have friends who do short track and drag racing [i'm in NC Nascar country] and Racing type oil is a one time [day] use fluid. And Yes, all sites are sponsored and certainly all oil makers claim they are the best. Caddy Info board discussions are useful to get data and experience from actual users. I tend to be over-conservative on oil, coolant etc, since these are the 'easy' things to do to maintain a vehicle. My rule of thumb is to use something if it is clearly better AND cost effective. Hence my quest for an Equal to or better than Mobil One equivalent at a lower cost. Mobil One has always over priced their product IMO.
  11. Well, from my reading at various sites [bob is the Oil Guy is a good site with detailed analysis] the advantages of synthetic 5W-40 oil show up in extended High RPM, High Performance use- for example engine oil at 6000 RPM+ will increase in temperature to over 300+ F as the oil on friction surfaces flows between surfaces. Synthetic 5W-40 will not thin out or break down as easily as 5W-30 Synthetic or Dino oil. [some High-Po cars have additional oil coolers to deal with this.] The 5W-40 has been used in some Foreign makes and I was curious if it had been used by Northstar users here. My particular Application is my wife's XLR, which my Knucklehead son likes to wind up occasionally to 6000+ RPM. Also this Rotella 5W-40 since it is for Diesels has more wear inhibitors than standard automotive oils. Just curious to see if anyone has experience with these and the possible downsides. As Ranger noted...Your car "DOES" have an oil cooler. As for the occasional high RPM... My 2006 DTS Performance Sedan, now has 91,000 miles on it. It has seem occasional high RPM's since day 1. My rev limiter is set at 7000 RPM...not 6000. At least once a week...I STAND ON IT and let it wind up thru 1st and 2nd. On long trips...sometimes it is run for hours between 3500 and 4000 RPM It hasn't hurt anything yet...and it uses absolutely -0- oil between changes. It also seems just a tiny bit peppier with Synthetic oil than with DINO oil..,but that may just be in my head. Yes, All of which I agree- My comments specifically were that some Euro cars like Ferrari's / Lambo's which turn 8-10,000 RPM spec Synthetic 5W-40. Also some VW/ Audi Turbo Diesels. Just looking for the "ideal" oil and feedback experiences from actual Northstar users [especially European, I hope]. The Synthetic Rotella 5W-40W at $14/ gallon is more cost effective than the Mobil 1 Synthetic at $22 gallon. [2 gallons for the XLR] And hopefully some Chemical /Petroleum Engineer & Northstar owner can make some recommendations I run Mobil 1 Synthetic 5W-30 which is the GM recommended XLR fill and Synthetic [or less frequently Conventional] 5W-30 in my Deville. My 5.4L Expedition runs Ford Synth 5W-20 which is spec'd and even a 10,000 lb towing load hasn't so far hurt anything. It is still under the 6 yr/60K Powertrain warranty so I use the Ford required parts/fluids. Son's Malibu and Daughter G6's get 5W-30 Synth. Your experience with Synthetic "Peppy" is probably not in your head depending on the type you run. Tests show Cold Engine Start RPM is higher since most Synthetics flow better at cold than most Dino oils cold. And most synthetics seem to result in the engine with less restriction/friction & better flow rates. The newer Synthetic 0W-30 oils actually test out with slightly higher fuel efficiency than 5w-30s with equal protection. I will be experimenting with these this winter. [Most of my ramblings are taken from test results from the "Bob" oil site] As with anything, People are free to use what they want to use. Just wanting some actual experiences from N* users and maybe some pointers to sites with test data.
  12. Well, from my reading at various sites [bob is the Oil Guy is a good site with detailed analysis] the advantages of synthetic 5W-40 oil show up in extended High RPM, High Performance use- for example engine oil at 6000 RPM+ will increase in temperature to over 300+ F as the oil on friction surfaces flows between surfaces. Synthetic 5W-40 will not thin out or break down as easily as 5W-30 Synthetic or Dino oil. [some High-Po cars have additional oil coolers to deal with this.] The 5W-40 has been used in some Foreign makes and I was curious if it had been used by Northstar users here. My particular Application is my wife's XLR, which my Knucklehead son likes to wind up occasionally to 6000+ RPM. Also this Rotella 5W-40 since it is for Diesels has more wear inhibitors than standard automotive oils. Just curious to see if anyone has experience with these and the possible downsides.
  13. The API-grades has nothing to do with if the oil is synthetic or not. If you read my previous post quoting the guru earlier on then you would also have seen that oils that classifies for both gasoline and diesel engines also has a higher anti-wear protection. Diesels still need it. In the US, Shell distributors have Rotella 5W-40 synthetic, what is your opinion of running this in a Northstar? Any concerns?
  14. Another Useful users group is XLRForum.com. It is similar to Caddyinfo in that it is pretty active and has helpful moderators.