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  1. Today
  2. Oil Leak Fixed - Motor Purr

    Well I for one say that if there are 2 options 1 being to remove the engine and reseal it 2 try a bottle of snake oil It may be worthwhile to try option 2 even if it works for a period of time. especially if option 1 is not a option. although I do not believe in most snake oils (miracles in a bottle) sometimes it may help to get a little while more. I stress that it may be temporary.
  3. Oil Leak Fixed - Motor Purr

    Basically, it chemically breaks down / softens the seals - see barczy01's post above for the final result. Better to stop using it now and hope for the best.
  4. Oil Leak Fixed - Motor Purr

    Just wait till it starts leaking again with a vengeance!
  5. My DeVille Got Hit

    I would just say no on modifying the title in any way, particularly for something like a door dent.
  6. My DeVille Got Hit

    Yes, you're right it's unconscionable. Insurance companies used to be trusted, like banks, and that's not the case anymore. Insurers play the numbers, and they've found that it is not economical for them to fix the door on an older car. So, we have the option to take the money for the car, accept the salvage title, and fix the door. In many cases, people come out ahead doing that. But, not enough people know the tactic.
  7. Yesterday
  8. I love that aftermarket windshield sun shade. Those were quite the accessory in the sun belt during the 1940's and 1950's.
  9. Battery revisited 2006 DTS

    Good points all. I plan to ensure a fully charged battery, and do yet another load test, and then measure the parasitic current draw. I'll report the resulting measurements. Re: your two thoughts...1) Yes, i understand. I'm in Texas, and have dealt with batteries of all types for many HOT HOT years. And, 2) that's absolutely correct!
  10. Battery revisited 2006 DTS

    If the battery charge rate is insufficient when the vehicle is being driven, then the "NORMAL" parasitic draw is too much for the battery to handle when sitting for an over-niter. Once battery voltage drops to 9.6v nothing happens after that, the rule of thumb is that the parasitic draw should be no more than 1/4 of the reserve capacity of the stock fully charged battery in mA (i.e. stock battery is 120 min reserve capacity, maximum draw is 30 mA). If battery voltage is below that, reserve capacity is reduced proportionally AND max draw is reduced as well. IF your charging system AND battery are properly tested and are verified to be "normal" THEN do a parasitic draw test. One more thought for you to consider; Okay 2 thoughts 1) An automotive battery, with the exception of a deep cycle RV "style" battery, is NOT designed to be heavily discharged and recharged. Most "car" batteries will fail from frequent discharge and recharge cycles alone. Also, where you live plays a significant role in battery longevity. When I was working in the Phoenix, AZ area the heat killed MOST batteries in 2 years. In Oregon and Washington it is not unusual to see original equipment batteries still going strong after 7-10 years. 2) If you fix the car and the battery fails in a few weeks, Momma will not be happy and IT WILL be all your fault.
  11. Last week
  12. Vacuum Leak in Dash - 2002 ETC

    Have you located it yet?
  13. My DeVille Got Hit

    Thank you for getting back to us with the straight skinny, with all important detail. What I was thinking is that the Blue Book Wholesale value is what insurance companies use as a ceiling on compensation, and a salvage title reduces that to zero. What you are telling us is that for older cars in demand or as classics do have BBW value in CA and almost certainly elsewhere, which is news to me. What you say about actual value being better reflected by sources other than Blue Book Wholesale (which is said by Blue Book to be compiled from dealer sources for recent actual prices paid to individuals for similar make and model cars) is, of course, true. Note that BBW is intended as a measure of what to expect of an average sample offered to a dealer (possibly a used car dealer) as trade-in value, and that individual sale price is another number in the Blue Book prices for a car, as is Blue Book Retail, which is what you might expect to pay for the same car at a dealer as opposed to from an individual. But the main point remains mostly unscathed by facts: a salvage title on a 1996 Deville pretty much removes it from the financial spreadsheets of the insurance companies. And, asking to do that to a car for a rear door dent and paint work is unconscionable.
  14. Vacuum Leak in Dash - 2002 ETC

    It is audible at idle in the cabin. It's unmistakable.
  15. My DeVille Got Hit

    I am a lawyer in California, and we have alot of salvage title cars here. The car decreases in value, sometimes by alot, depending on the demand for the car. And, the older and more popular the car, it seems, the price difference can be very small. There are some insurance companies that will write collision and comprehensive coverage on a salvage car. Some won't. Then, if the car is totaled or badly damaged, the market value is less, but, it certainly has market value. A search on advanced google search, nationwide, for the make/model/year of the car with the word "salvage", will likely come up with salvaged cars for sale. Kelly Blue Book is not designed for the "sale" value of a car. It is for banks to use to determine how much they will loan on the purchase of a car. NADA guides and, to some degree, Edmunds, is a better guide for actual sale prices. But, I've found that craigslist ads can be a better source in some regions.
  16. My 2002 ETC had an oil leak that dropped onto the exhaust manifold, I guess, and smelled and made smoke. It was truly annoying. My mechanic told me to try Motor Purr. It worked. There was a noticeable decrease in a couple of weeks, and now, three or so months later, there doesn't seem to be a leak at all. No smoke, no smell, no adding a quart of oil every few weeks. I don't usually like additives, but, in the face of a several-thousand dollar tear-down on a car worth just a little more than that, I was tempted. I'm glad now I did it.
  17. Battery revisited 2006 DTS

    Thanks, again. I initially thought, and had always thought, that the charging voltages remained constant, but with all the computer controlled devices nowadays i wasn't sure. Although, I still DO think that there are some current draining things going on when the car is turned off, like overnight. When this problem happens, (like last night), there is NOTHING when she tries to start the car. No cranking at all. It's like something just drained the battery overnight.
  18. Battery revisited 2006 DTS

    It is not normal for the charging system to vary voltage. KHE had a similar problem recently... Sorry, I didn't make that question very clear. I was referring to parasitic load not starter current draw. From what you are experiencing I would recommend taking the Deville to someone who can diagnose the charging system. It sounds like the generator is only charging the battery intermittently.
  19. Battery revisited 2006 DTS

    Thanks, OldCadTech! ) Which thread(s) are you referring to? Some threads on this site. Do a quick search for Battery Drain. 2) Do you own a 2006 DTS? Well, yes, as my significant other does. I'm working on it. 3) Have you added any after-market accessories? No, not that I know of. We've owned it about 2 years. Fairly recently started these issues. And, as coincidence would have it, JUST LAST NIGHT it left her stranded at work. She is beyond furious.... 4) Have you LOAD tested the battery in the vehicle you're having the problem with? Yes, last weekend I removed the battery and took it to the shop from which we bought it about a 1 1/2 ago. Battery tested good. 4a) Have you tested the charging system? While at the battery shop, he put a voltmeter on the battery while car was running. Tested 14.5 Vdc. I have a multimeter, also, (as I'm an electronic tech/electrician), and it read the same voltage. We DID NOT test actual charging current, as he nor I have that equipment. 4b) Is it charging more than 13 volts? Yes, and it varies. (is this normal?). After I drove the car home from battery shop above, the voltage had dropped to 12.x. Then I drove it to a mechanic, and when I got there it was 13.x. He could find nothing wrong. Also, he left the battery voltage showing on the dash display, and it varies while driving. (is this normal?) 4c) How old is the battery? 1 1/2 year. Load tested good last weekend. 5) Are the battery cable ends and bolts free of corrosion? Battery cables and connections are immaculate. Looks like show room conditions. The entire car is immaculate. 6) Do you have a Digital Volt Ohm Meter (DVOM) to do the current draw tests? Yes, I do, but low current capability. I probably should not have my meter in series with the battery when cranking the car. The meter would probably be ok to use for just testing to see if there is any current drain when everything is off.
  20. Battery revisited 2006 DTS

    Sorry, I'll have to ask a few questions first. 1) Which thread(s) are you referring to? 2) Do you own a 2006 DTS? 3) Have you added any after-market accessories? 4) Have you LOAD tested the battery in the vehicle you're having the problem with? 4a) Have you tested the charging system? 4b) Is it charging more than 13 volts? 4c) How old is the battery? 5) Are the battery cable ends and bolts free of corrosion? 6) Do you have a Digital Volt Ohm Meter (DVOM) to do the current draw tests?
  21. I recall a friend from my high school who put a 1955 Chevy V8 in his 1949 Oldsmobile (huge fastback, as you recall) and it woudln't go over 110 mph or so because the rear wheels would come off the ground. I asked why the Olds V8 didn't run at least as good, and he said that the Chevy V8 was much faster. What I didn't know at the time was that the 1949 Olds V8 was 303 ci but only came with a two-barrel and was rated at 135 hp. The standard 1955 Chevy V8, 265 ci, was rated at 162 hp with the two-barrel, 180 hp with the four-barrel and dual exhausts (and probably different heads), and 195 hp with the "power pack" (4 barrel carb, cam, dual exhausts, very probably different heads and valve sizes). And, it was instantly recognized as tunable. The 1956 Corvette offered the 265 in 210 hp, 225 hp, and 240 hp. But that technology was available to the rich kids, none of whom I knew other than to recognize in the hallways at school.
  22. Have read MANY of the existing threads, mostly are older. Did anyone ever discover the primary or main cause of the battery draining on the 2006 DTS? I am having this issue, and it's unreliable to not know if/which morning the car won't crank. Thanks!
  23. My DeVille Got Hit

    Same lamp....different MINI. 18 months after spraying with Spray Max 2K.. Zero additional care or maintenance waxing or polishing since spraying. No deterioration at all.
  24. We are in complete agreement on those points. And while the old school raised front or sqatted rear does help with autocross cornering (speeds rarely get above 40 MPH in Solo II and 70 MPH in Pro Solo), the lift caused at higher speeds are dangerous. My 70 Eldorado had a sagging rear due to air shock load leveling failure and in a top speed test, I had to back off of the acceleration when the car reached 115 MPH because the wind under the 4,860 lb. car had lifted the front end to full height and the steering was very touchy. I had plenty of untapped power and would not have lived to see the 150 MPH potential.
  25. You are the expert on the requirements and design for your application, which, as I recall, is autocross/gymkhana contests. I would think that total agility contests like that would favor a level car, as you say. I qualify my opinion that the rake is for high speed stability as just that, an opinion. I based it initially on these points: My ETC came with the rake. The car was exactly on the ride height specifications in the FSM (with new tires) throughout its life. My ETC did not come with a spoiler. I don't believe that a factory RPO spoiler was available for the 1997 ETC. The owner's manual states "This car will go 150 mph." Car & Driver timed a 1997 ETC (I believe, it might have been an STS) at 145 mph on their home test track, which has a good straightaway but is not suitable for testing top speed of very fast cars. I'm not at all sure that the ETC body style would be stable above 120 mph without the rake; this is, of course, yet another opinion. The ETC/STS (VIN "9" cars) designed to run with the big dogs on the Autobahn, and the VIN "Y" cars were designed to keep up with traffic (up to 120 mph or 195 kph) . This is from the car trade mags of the time. The throttle response and stability at 100++ certainly supports real-world long-distance driving at those speeds, while dealing with similar-speed traffic and real-world roads that are designed to support such traffic. So says a friend. Now, if I had one to test, and had wheel height sensors available in real time with output available for recording, I could verify the utility of the rake in keeping reasonable weight on all four wheels at speed. Wheel height, with spring rate, translates into weight on the wheel, a point that is used in the PCM/PZM/BCM in traction control and electronic stability control.
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