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  1. Past hour
  2. Thank you very much for responding OldCadTech! Just to clarify, the first test I did (to establish if there is a short to ground) was to, in effect, bridge (if that is the right term) relay terminals 85 and 86. That is, putting the test light between the female connectors on the plug that the relay plugs into (with the relay removed, ignition 'on', engine off). So because the test light lit up red, it suggests a short to ground. When I did the short to ground tests, with DMM and test light, it was to the same female terminals at the connector. Of course, this time with the ign switched off. You have given me a very simple test to do that I didn't really think of doing - makes a lot of sense - thank-you! EDIT: The relay-to-pump wire that is. The relay-to-switch I had thought to do but hadn't yet got my head around the procedure. You explained it very well. By the way, this car was aone-owner 44,000km example when it came from Japan 3 years ago (now in Australia). In all my examination of wiring so far (including this particular relay connection) the wires and terminals look like new. That doesn't mean there isn't a corrosion issue at, for example, the underhood fuse block, as you said. I'll do the short to ground tests and let you know how it goes.
  3. Today
  4. I responded above and then read the "Rest of the Story".... Anyway, I am old school. I love using DVOM's for testing components etc. but plain old wiring I like to use the above method or in very long circuits I will use a circuit breaker rated the same as the fuse and a short finder. Short finders are great for checking along door sills and any longer wire runs. If you don't have one, I highly recommend a terminal test kit. They make life a lot easier. They're especially nice for doing connector and component drag tests.
  5. It all depends on where you are testing the blue and pink wires from. The purpose of both tests is to isolate the circuit wiring. Pull the Booster pump relay and look at the connector end of the relay, find the terminal marked 30 on the relay and match that terminal to the female connector on the fuse/relay block. Connect a wire to that #30 connector (not at the relay-where the relay plugs into the wire) and connect it to the battery ground terminal. At the booster pump assembly, disconnect the connector and with your test light connected to the positive terminal of the battery, probe the pink wire at terminal C (connector end - not the pump side) if the test light illuminates, disconnect the wire at the negative battery terminal and IF the wire is good the test light will go out. If the test lamp stays illuminated you have a short in that circuit. Physically trace the wire (pink circuit 173 in this example) completely back to the relay connector if necessary to find the short. If the circuit 173 (pink) tests okay repeat the entire process for the DK BLU circuit at relay connector 86 and at booster pump connector A. If they BOTH test good let me know and I can run you through the pump test. These under hood fuse and relay blocks are notorious for corroding, so when you remove the relay check the condition of the connectors. If they look corroded, pull the fuse block so you can see the bottom of it and check it. If the wires are shorted, and are impossible, or seem to be impossible to trace ( without taking half the car apart) and the fuse/relay block is in good condition, remove the faulty circuit connector from the fuse block and run a replacement wire directly from the relay, through the fuse block and to the booster pump connector. If the booster pump connector is in good condition, cut the faulty circuit wire about 4-5 inches from the connector and solder and seal the replacement wire and the old wire together or use a heat sealed butt connector. <<<----- Harbor Freight Watertight Heat-Shrink Butt Connectors Your relay #30 terminal may not be in the same location as the one pictured, but it will be marked.
  6. Flasher relay

    Here's a blog post on reading OBD codes. Key phrase: "AutoZone and most parts store chains will read your codes for free. All you have to do is ask." I looked at the Pep Boys web site and they offer an OBD code reading service for free too: If you have one of these guys handy, get the codes listed for you for free. If you want to go forward yourself, don't buy the service that they offer to diagnose your car. If they offer a diagnosis for a fixed small fee like $64, you can get that if you want - but be careful that you don't get led into losing control of the cost of repair. Me, I would stop at the free OBD code list. Make sure that they know that you want the BCM codes, the ones that read Bnnnn, where n is a numerical digit 0-9, not just the engine codes of the form Pnnnn. The article recommends a dongle on the OBD connector that uses Bluetooth with a cell phone to make up your own code reader. I've been doing this for years, so my setup is an OBD-to-USB cable and a laptop. My favorite vendor of this is Scan, the people that make the chips in other peoples scan tools: They can sell you the Bluetooth dongle and software for your cell phone. Another DIY code reader that I found with a web search is Watch out for the $100 or cheaper all-in-one hand-held code readers that only show Pnnnn codes, and sometimes not all of them but only the emissions codes.
  7. Flasher relay

    Where can i go to get these codes read ?
  8. I have also asked this question over at the Cadillac forum, but I know some of you guys are Cadillac techs so I hoping someone can help me. I apologise for asking what is probably a very basic electrical question. I have tried googling this but I can't seem to find a clear answer.I have a 2003 RHD Cadillac Seville STS. Unlike the LHD cars, the RHD model has a brake booster pump to supply power assistance for the brake system. It contains an electric motor, a pressure switch and an accumulator.The fuse to the pressure switch of the pump keeps blowing. I think the pump motor or pressure switch is shorting out.This is the wiring diagram (attached) Here is where I need help:I followed the trouble shooting guide in the factory manual. It said to connect a test light between the brake booster vacuum signal circuit (dark blue wire) and ign 1 voltage circuit at the relay (pink wire), with the relay removed. The test light lit up when I did this.The next step in the flow chart said to test the booster sensor signal circuit for a short to ground.This is where my question comes in. According to the factory manual you can test a short two ways:Use a digital multi meter (DMM) - Remove the power feed (i.e. fuse, control module) from the suspect circuit.Disconnect the load.Set the rotary dial of the DMM to the Ohm position.Connect 1 lead of the DMM to 1 end of the circuit to be tested.Connect the other lead of the DMM to a good ground.If the DMM does NOT display infinite resistance (OL), there is a short to ground in the circuit.When I set the DMM to '20k' Ohms, I tested the dark blue wire as per above instructions, and the DMM showed a reading fluctuating between 5.66 Ohms to about 9 Ohms. When I tested the pink wire, it showed infinite resistance ('1'). EDIT: Despite what seems to be a good earth (strut tower bolt, but tried a couple of other earth points) the Ohm reading at the dk blue wire is not consistant. Some readings, it's 0.00, others it'll flash up to 19 Ohms and then settle at '1'. When the DMM is set to 200k Ohms, the reading slowly climbed to 140. other times it fluctuated between 80-120.There is a second method, using a test lamp:Remove the power feed (i.e. fuse, control module) from the suspect circuit.Disconnect the load.Connect 1 lead of the test lamp to battery positive voltage.Connect the other lead of the test lamp to 1 end of the circuit to be tested.If the test lamp illuminates, there is a short to ground in the circuit.When I did this, for both the blue wire and then the pink wire, the test lamp illuminated.Does this sound like a short circuit to you? Using the second method (test lamp) it shows resistance in the ign 1 voltage circuit, which conflicts with the DMM reading of infinite resistance. Of couse ign was off during short to ground tests.The whole sorry situation with the pump can be found here:
  9. Yesterday
  10. Flasher relay

    @Cadillac Jim You are SPOT ON about the wiring and connectors Yes, It would make things a LOT easier, to get the BCM codes.
  11. Flasher relay

    Hey, how about getting the codes read by a reader that gives us all the BCM codes? You know that with inoperative turn signals, a dead CHMSL, and a dead hazard warning flasher that there are lots of BCM DTCs. If we have them then we can steer Will to where the problems are being caused.
  12. Flasher relay

    @Loganis the expert on CHMSL assemblies, he rebuilds and sells replacements. Trunk-mounted CHMSL assemblies tend to have eventual condensation and leaks that result in corrosion, and the simplest way to get a nice one where all the LEDs have the same brightness and such is to replace the old one. When you get to the CHMSL, you need to check and see if it's getting voltage to the L-BL (light blue) wire when the brake pedal is pressed with the key on. If so, check the BK (black) wire for a good ground. If the volts are there and the ground is good and the CHMSL doesn't light, the CHMSL assembly is bad. If you have a hearse package or commercial chassis, the CHMSL is from the coachwork company, not GM, but a light blue wire goes to the coachwork lighting connector. If you have an export model, the CHMSL hot wire is YE/WH (yellow stripe on white). But the CHMSL can wait for the turn signals.
  13. Flasher relay

    Usually when someone dumps a car for peanuts its because of something he doesn't want to deal with. Electrical problems are a mystical problem for some people, often very bright people that you would trust to do brake work and internal engine work, but that for some reason just don't grok electrics. To others, electrical problems are just another problem to solve and are taken in stride. If electrical problems are why the car was available for a good price, you may have a really good find here, but be prepared for a bit of patience. If you diagnose problems before buying parts, and the previous owner didn't do something really dumb like hook the battery up backwards and blew all the modules (it woudn't even start if someone did that), it shouldn't be expensive to get right.
  14. Flasher relay

    The BCM is under the dash on the passenger side, just to the right of the glove compartment as seen from the passenger seat. If the connector is involved, the wires in row 3 of C1 (the green connector) are the ones with the turn signals and the hazard warning light wire. My limited experience with wiring harness problems is that they tend to be wires pulled out by physical damage, usually inadvertent damage from other work, and show up as intermittent connections or loss of connection. The problem is a wire pulled out of a connector and unnoticed, or simply pushed back into the connector by the guilty party. They can be found by tugging on the wires to the connector one at a time; if one pulls out, well, there you are. The repair is simple; the best one is a new terminal. Never stop at the first wire you find, but check all of them.
  15. Flasher relay

    And yes my other brake lights work
  16. Flasher relay

    I found something telling me the bcm is located in the right side dashboard...... Im hoping its just a simple ground wire......plea$e..... Does that sound like something hard to get to
  17. Flasher relay

    @Cadillac Jim Is the BCM located near the glove box or behind the back seat? The common denominator in all the problems is the BCM. @Will needs to access the BCM and make sure the connectors, especially the GN connector, is not loose or damaged. Since the BCM controls the ground circuit I would pay close attention the that wire and its connector. I would do a drag test on all the female connectors at the BCM. I would also check the G104 ground and cable
  18. Flasher relay

    I take it from Logan's point made here, that the CHMSL is on the trunk lid on this model, not inside the rear window. Logan is a true authority on external lighting; note the links in his signature block. Unless you need the CHMSL to work for State Inspection, you might consider letting it go for now.
  19. Flasher relay

    I would not put too much emphasis on the non-working third brake light. That era of DTS third brake lamps have a extremely high failure rate. It should be noted that it is not working as a possible clue.....but don't get too hung up on it. Personally... I think they should go back to $2 light bulbs.
  20. Flasher relay

    The CHMSL is operated by a supply voltage from the BCM. It shares a fuse in the rear fuse block with the back-up lights labeled CHMSL/BCK-UP. It's possible that the stoplight switch or connections aren't working. Do your other stop lights work? The CHMSL in the schematic is a single LED but they are usually a bank of LEDs, and any of them out is a rare occurrence, particularly if they are inside the rear window and the assembly is not exposed to the elements. If none of the stop lights work I would look at the stop light switch and its wiring. At this point I'm convinced that there are scads of Bnnnn DTCs that we don't have.
  21. Flasher relay

    Add ons meaning....have i done anything extra to the vehicle. If so . no. I just bought the car for a very low price i couldn't pass. I was aware of the problems prior to but im determined to get it back rolling as a cadilac should
  22. Flasher relay

    NP I read between the lines too...
  23. Flasher relay

    Sorry for my misspelled texting. At work and trying to type fast
  24. Flasher relay

    I didn't see a reply to the question about add-ons, anything about that?
  25. Flasher relay

    I checked the ones under the hood and under the back seat. Im hoping its not a really bad situation. I just notuced today that also my third brakr light going across the trunk doesnt work either. What in the world is going on.
  26. Flasher relay

    @Will Did you only check the fuses under the hood?
  27. Last week
  28. Flasher relay

    There are two illuminations in the hazard warning switch: the dashboard illumination, which is a bulb that is powered by the dimmed dashboard power and is part of the dash lighting, and an LED that turns on when the hazard warning lights are active. The bulb in the Hazard Warning Switch is powered by the dimmer power for the dashboard. It's brightness is controlled by the interior light dimming. If the car sees daylight in the dashboard ambient light sensor under the rearview mirror at the front center of the dashboard, the lights aren't dimmed. If you put a clipboard over that sensor and wait a few seconds, or at night, the dash and interior lights are dimmed, and you have a control near the headlight switch to control the amount of dimming. If that works, there is no reason that the hazard warning switch illumination should not work too. The LED, which is a lot brigher than the dashboard illumintion bulb, is in the same circuit as the signal to the BCM, a TN (probably tan) wire between the switch and the BCM. If it doesn't light, then either the hazard warnign switch is not connected to the BCM, or the BCM is not powering the switch circuit. Any connection between the hazard warning switch and anything else in the car is through the BCM logic. There is no physical connection between the hazard warning switch and anything other than the BCM (except the dashboard illumination bulb). EXCEPT: the tan wire is on the same conector as the turn signal wires to the BCM, C1, which is a 27-terminal GN (green) connector on the BCM. From my SI DVD: Untitled 1.rtf
  29. Flasher relay

    But since even my hszatd button doesnt light up which is located in the middle of the dash under the clock. Would a bad multifunction switch prevent my hazard button from lighting up??? Or would it at least still light up on the inside?
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