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  1. Yesterday
  2. I just wasn't sure if that was your real name
  3. Ok thank you ... Jim?
  4. Wait for OldCadTech for more brake service information. He's the "more experienced [than I]" Caddyinfo member that you need for your brake work. Others will pitch in when they can, and there are lots of other good hands out and about on Caddyinfo. OldCadTech is one of the best.
  5. I looked at the 2002 model year information on my SI DVD (that's as far back as the 2011 SI DVD goes) and it's much the same as the 1997 FSM for regular brakes. There is a heavy duty brake option that may have been part of a trailer hauling package or other option, RPO J55, but that isn't available in the 1997 model year. So, I didn't need the VIN, but since you posted it, here is what I find. You should copy the information to a text file and keep it handy with your other car records. The VIN, build date, paint number, and RPO list will be on a sticker on the inside of the spare tire cover in the trunk, but this list includes a line or two that explains each RPO. Most of them are known but a few of them may be difficult to interpret without this list. Car build date May 5, 1997. There were about 101,000 cars like yours built. RPO list: RPO Description Matches UW6 SPEAKER SYSTEM,6,DUAL FRONT DOOR TWEETER & WOOFER,DUAL EXTENDED RANGE 6 SPKR SYS(UW6) 72,078 U02 CLUSTER,INSTRUMENT,KILOMETER AND MILES,DIGITAL DISPLAY DIGITAL DISPLAY CSTR(U02) 92,059 U09 HORN,FOUR NOTE 4 NOTE HORN(U09) 100,970 U1L RADIO - AM STEREO/FM STEREO, SEEK/SCAN, AUTO/REV MUSIC SEARCH CASS, CLOCK, ETR RADIO,AFS,SS,CAS(U1L) 72,078 U75 ANTENNA,POWER(CHROME) PWR ANT(U75) 101,921 VM3 LABEL INFORMATION CONSUMER, CONTAINS BPR IMP STANDARD FOR FRT 5 MPH & RR 5 MPH 5 MPH BUMPER INFO LABEL(VM3) 82,609 V73 VEHICLE STATEMENT - US/CANADA US/CANADA VEHICLE STATEMENT(V73) 100,155 WJ7 TRIM,INTERIOR(LEATHER) LEATHER TR(WJ7) 99,797 15I INTERIOR TRIM,SHALE/NEUTRAL (15I) 65,193 152 TRIM COMBINATION,SHALE,LEATHER (152) 47,121 38U EXTERIOR COLOR,PRIMARY,BRIGHT TEAL METALLIC (38U) 6,981 46A ACCENT STRIPE COLOR,TWO TONE,LT CHESTNUT/GARNET RED (46A) 49,287 6LR COMPONENT FRT LH COMPUTER SEL SUSP SUSP(6LR) 100,915 7LR COMPONENT FRT RH - COMPUTER SEL SUSP SUSP(7LR) 100,915 8AP COMPONENT- COMPUTER SELECTED, SUSPENSION SUSP(8AP) 90,200 9AP COMPONENT- COMPUTER SELECTED, SUSPENSION SUSP(9AP) 90,200 AJ7 RESTRAINT SYSTEM FRT SEAT, INFLATABLE, DRIVER AND PASSENGER, FRT & SIDE INFL RST FRT & SI(AJ7) 101,931 AM6 SEAT,FRONT SPLIT,3 PASSENGER WITH CENTER ARMREST FRT SPLIT ST(AM6) 77,139 CJ2 HVAC SYSTEM AIR CONDITIONER FRT, AUTO TEMP CONT, AUX TEMP CONT A/C FRT AUTO/AUX CONT(CJ2) 101,921 DA1 ARM REST RR SEAT, STORAGE R/SEAT STOR A/RST(DA1) 99,237 DD0 MIRROR,O/S,R AND L REM CTL,ELEC,DEFOG,LT SENSITIVE O/S ELEC R/CON MIR(DD0) 100,227 DD8 MIRROR,INSIDE,REARVIEW,TILT,AUTOMATIC,LIGHT SENSITIVE I/S RR VIEW MIR,LIGHT SENSITIVE(DD8) 58,928 DEH PLANT CODE - DETROIT/HAMTRAMCK, MI, BOC HAMTRAMCK, MI PLANT(DEH) 101,919 D98 STRIPE,BODY SIDE ACCENT AND DECK LID ACNT STRPE(D98) 90,928 E2F RAPID DELIVERY SYS - FORECAST HOLES (E/K/V-TRK CKST) 60,135 E2M RAPID DELIVERY SYS - POPULAR CONFIGURATIONS THAT FALL BELOW THE MIN (E/K/V-TRK CKST) 30,563 E2P RAPID DELIVERY SYS - POPULAR CONFIGURATIONS (E/K/V-TRK CKST) 45,044 FE1 SUSPENSION SYSTEM,SOFT RIDE SOFT RIDE SUSP(FE1) 91,054 FE9 FEDERAL EMISSION CERTIFICATION FED EMIS(FE9) 86,973 FV3 RATIO TRANSAXLE FINAL DRIVE 3.11 3.11R(FV3) 92,059 IQ2 TRIM,INTERIOR DESIGN (IQ2) 75,292 JL9 BRAKE SYSTEM,POWER,FRONT AND REAR DISC,ANTILOCK FRT & RR DISC ANTILOCK BRK(JL9) 100,927 KG9 GENERATOR,140 AMPERE 140 AMP(KG9) 100,602 LD8 ENGINE GAS,8CYL,4.6L,V8,DOHC,SFI,(281C.I.D.)(NORTHSTAR) 4.6Y(LD8) 92,059 MH1 TRANSMISSION AUTO 4 SPD, 4T80E, ELECTRONIC CONV CLUTCH 4-SPD A/TRANS(MH1) 101,921 MX0 TRANSMISSION,AUTOMATIC,OVERDRIVE(MERCHANDISING OPTION) A/TRANS PROVISIONS(MX0) 101,932 NF2 EMISSION SYSTEM,FEDERAL,TIER 1 FED EMIS SYS(NF2) 86,974 NP5 STEERING WHEEL,LEATHER WRAPPED LEATHER WRAPPED STRG WHL(NP5) 101,932 NV8 STEERING POWER, MAGNETIC SPEED, VARIABLE ASSIST MAG SPD VAR ASSIST P/S(NV8) 101,921 QC9 WHEEL 16 X 7, ALUMINUM, SPORT ALUM WHL(QC9) 59,564 QPY TIRE ALL P225/60R16 WS2 R/PE ST TL ALS 97S TIRE(QPY) 91,042
  6. This is my vin 1G6KD54Y7VU285860
  7. I believe that is the correct diagram
  8. Thanks, now we're all on the same page.
  9. I'm sorry, I don't see how I conveyed that impression. would first figure out whether the OP's brakes are or are not the same as the parts breakdown. Sometimes it's not immediately clear. We need to hear what he means by "That is not... what my caliper looks like." Something more specific would be helpful. Hauling out the 1997 E/K FSM, section 5B2, I see only one rear caliper without exclusions or separate paragraphs for RPO codes, which tells me that all rear calipers up until the manual went to press (3/6/97 press date on the first page; I ordered the manuals from Helm in October, 1997 when I bought the car) are the same. Since there is only one rear caliper in the 1997 FSM, I don't need the VIN; the only rear caliper diagram that I have is shown below. I see that the FSM full-page figure on page 5B2-3 is similar to OldCdTech's diagram except that my FSM figure has a different emergency brake emergency brake lever, bracket, and return spring, and there is a "PAD CLIP," number 4 in my diagram, that I don't see in your diagram. Your diagram is apparently from a later SI DVD or manual. Either later production has a change in the emergency brake cable bracket and return spring, the diagram in my FSM is incorrect (rare, but I've see it before) or your diagram is for a different model year. The operation of the brake, from my FSM page 5B2-1, is: "This caliper has a single bore and is mounted to the support bracket with two mouing bolt and sleeve assemblies. Hydraulic pressure, created by applying the brake pedal, is converted by the caliper to a stopping force. This force ats equally against the piston and the bottom of the piston bore to move the piston outward and to move (slide) the caliper inward resulting in a clamping action. This clamping action presses the linings against the rotor, creating friction to stop the vehicle." More to the point, the operation of the emergency brake follows in the next two paragraphs: When the parking brake is applied, the external caliper parking brake lever moves and rotates a spindle within the caliper housing. As the spindle rotates, a connecting rod is pushed against an internal adjusting screw which is theaded into a sleeve nut (cone) in the piston assembly. This causes the piston assembly to move outward bringing the inboard pad and lining assembly against the rotor. As the inboard and lining contacts the rotor, a reaction force causes the caliper housing to slide inward pressing the outboard pad and lining against the rotor." "The piston assembly contains a self-adjusting mechanism to keep the parking brake in proper adjustment. As the linings are worn, the piston moves through the seal to maintain proper lining to rotor clearance. The park brake adjusts to proper clearances through an internal sleeve nut that rotates and moves as one unit with the piston." I you want translation from "technical writer-ese" to plain English, let me know and I'll do an interpretation. I don't see a special tool called out for this section of the manual. I hope this helps.
  10. You must be doing brake work for a living so please explain the system to me and the OP. I only did brake work almost on a daily basis on Cadillacs until 1995... So yes, please take over and explain the system and the P-brake adjustment procedure. Since you have the FSM Is this what he has? This style can be compressed with a C-clamp. There ya go....
  11. Ok I'll get the vin for ya later. I just got to work
  12. Others with more experience in brake work can likely get you the right diagram. If that's a problem and you need the diagram, let me know your VIN by PM and I'll get your option list off the WWW and check my 1997 FSM for the right diagram and upload it.
  13. She did sit for about a week at a time but was driven almost every Sunday
  14. That is not at all what my caliper looks like.
  15. "Totaled" is an insurance company term, you and your lawyer should ignore it. I once caw a beautiful yellow 1953 Buick convertible show car drive through an intersection, and some yahoo decided to run a red light and do a left turn, with a visible-a-half-block-away I'm-coming-through-gang-WAY attitude, and he careened into the left quarter panel. This was in 2015, I believe. I didn't drive up and volunteer as a witness because I was a half block away and all eyes were on this jerk at the time, in the center of a small suburban town (the main intersection in the center of the town!) and there were a lot of those eyes, many of them within feet of the incident. I have seen insurance adjusters representing people that are 100% at fault try to offer junk price or less for a car that their client has damaged. Just say no; don't get mad, ignore the word "total" and demand that the car be fixed or replaced to your satisfaction. Note that replacement of a cherry Diamond White 1996 Deville is impractical, if not impossible. Any experienced personal damage lawyer will know all this and much more as second nature. Yes, they can fix your car, to your satisfaction, and the repair will make the car like new. Finding the right shop is the key, and handling the insurance agent for the other driver is a nuisance but doable. I hope the young girl got out of a car and into rehab. Drunk, stoned, and careening into Diamond White Cadillacs in traffic is no way to go through life.
  16. Wow! Sorry to hear. Florida is a no fault state too. But, I got lucky because she was arrested for DUI, and possession of a controlled substance. She also got a ticket for careless driving. She has insurance and she's 100% at fault so her insurance will be covering it since I don't have full coverage on mine. I'm still pissed at this %$#%&.. They had it at $2,900.00 in damage at first. Guy said it would be totaled at that amount. Then they came back at $2,000.00.. Not totaled and the shop can do it for that. Not sure if I'm gonna bother fixing it. Got a door cheap, but may not use it.
  17. Thank you for the update. Glad to hear you got it fixed.
  18. Especially, putting emphasis on the vehicle sitting for long periods of time.
  19. The rear caliper pistons CAN be compressed with a C-clamp, actually I used a pry-bar or screwdriver and pushed against the pad and rotor so the notch would stay in place, BUT BUT BUT the lever had to be OFF the back of the caliper, that way the adjuster screw would rotate and not the piston. You would HAVE to be the HULK to compress that piston with the bracket on, or something would break. Plus, to use a C-clamp you have to balance it on the side and keep it away from the adjuster, which can be quite a feat. DO NOT lose the friction seal and washer #'s 7 & 8 in the second picture. I've probably replaced less than 10 rear hubs. It's not a common problem but it does happen. The caliper support bolts are a ONE time use bolt. I have reused them on MY own vehicles but I re-applied lock-tite (blue) and I NEVER reused them a second time
  20. Never underestimate the power of salt on a grease seal when the car sits for long periods of time. I once saw a new Porsche 911 being driven by a teen assistant mechanic blow out of a light change and, at 100++ mph, rear-end an old couple in an Olds sedan a quarter mile ahead and total both cars. On my current car, I've found curb abrasions on three wheels that had been "buffed out" before I got the car. The only perfect wheel is one I replaced myself about a year after I got the car. Not to say that the rear hub is suspect; your vast experience is more than enough to forget the rear hub for now, but I'm saying that anything is possible in an old car unless it's never been out of your sight. A previous owner could have bruised the right rear hub by sliding against a curb in the snow or whatever.
  21. I feel your pain. My wife's 2004 Deville got hit in the church parking lot a week and a half ago. No note was left. Right rear quarter panel, rear bumper, and right tail light damaged - $1600 in damage. Michigan is a no-fault state so it goes on my insurance policy. Whoever hit it knew they hit it and just left. Two weeks earlier, my boat trailer got hit in the parking lot of the launch ramp - no note left there either... At least I was able to fix that myself. It just makes one feel violated. Makes me want to buy a video camera and put it in place so I can catch these SOBs in action...
  22. Thanks for response. I dropped it off for a driveability guy to look at. Curious to see if something in the 5 volt ref line might be causing issue also. But I’m prepared to be told it’s the computer. The pedal shared 5 volt with the fuel tank pressure sensor and they have had issues with them. I’ll keep you posted Update.... mechanic found a burnt up harness by shock tower, not attached so it was hitting exhaust manifold. Could not believe that the car even ran let alone only throw 2 codes. The throttle body harness was also in rough shape. He hardwired the harness wires for now and car runs and drives great. Car will eventually get a new engine harness. This car obviously had been cobbled wiring wise. Before changing throttle body and or pedal, check all harnesses in engine bay!!!! Thank you
  23. If you compressed the rear calipers with c clamps they are now junk. The correct tool is under 10 dollars. And it can be substituted with a nice pair of needle nose pliers. the calipers are released by turning the piston until it retracts. The setup is actually the best dual brake setup I have seen yet. Very reliable. Also to date I have never changed a rear hub assembly on any cadillac unless it was hit or hit something on the corner in question. the fronts on the other hand are common and typically howl when they fail
  24. You could use a Factory Shop Manual (FSM). They are pricey new but cheap on eBay and such. They will pay for themselves the first time you use them by telling you about things like the rear brakes and how to deal with the emergency brake. Special tools, if you really do need one, are often available for loan or rent from Caddyinfo people, and can sometimes be found on eBay at good prices.
  25. Last week
  26. Oh crap really. Another special tool. But the end of my c clamp has a swivel thing on it. Maybe that worked.... I hope
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