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  1. Today
  2. Thanks, It is running quite well, and with the new gas, the smell is gone. Very glad the codes are not engine related...
  3. Thanks...the bad window refers to my driver door regulator which i am replacing this weekend...napa for $81. Every time I take off a door panel, I always worry about screwing up the clip or the panel in some way. The utube vid I saw made it appear that that should not be a problem. Perhaps the Cad clips are a better design? ....I'll find out this weekend! Rest of the procedure looked pretty straightforward and benefits from a better design. Love the protective panel instead of plastic sheet. Not sure why the rear seat temp is throwing a code. They seem to be working just fine. BTW, where is the best place to go for the codes?
  4. Thanks, I am not as worried about this since I emptied and refilled the tank. The strong odor was such a change that I immediately went tp the dark side and assumed the cat was bad. I've got a nice trip planned to stretch out her legs.
  5. FYI The codes are all about a bad window and the rear seat temp.
  6. Yesterday
  7. could have been watery or contaminated fuel also. These cars today run so good that even with poor gas sometimes it is hard to tell.
  8. General Motors Co. (NYSE: GM) today announced that Institutional Shareholder Services (“ISS”), a leading independent proxy advisory firm, has recommended that GM shareholders vote FOR ALL of the Board’s nominees and AGAINST the Greenlight proposal at the Company’s 2017 Annual Meeting of Shareholders to be held on June 6, 2017. Glass Lewis, another leading independent proxy advisory firm, had previously issued similar recommendations in favor of ALLGM Board nominees and AGAINST the Greenlight proposal. View the full article
  9. RT @RegionalUniform: Check this out on my store : Hero Flag -- Thin Red Line, Thin Blue Line, 3'x5' American Flag…

  10. Costco gas is toptier so that shouldn't have been your problem. Sometimes a nice highway stint will clear a 'stop and go run' vehicle of a lazy 'cat'.
  11. Good. I would not worry about it as long as you have good power, no misfires, and no related codes
  12. Finally took the codes...and ran it down to near empty, then re-filled with name brand. Previous was Costco. Haven't noticed any smell...maybe the gas saved my *smurf*...:) But did show these "current" codes....and thankfully no "B0420" RFA B3109 IPM B0429 DDM B3832 DDM B1591 BodybyFisher: the link to the DTC codes, in your signature, for 1996 and above does not least not for me!
  13. Last week
  14. I know what ya mean.... LOL I know there are NO dirt roads where @BodybyFisher lives.
  15. might as well be. Dirt roads would probably be better than our roads. wouldn't want to scratch the paint lol
  16. General Motors Co. (NYSE: GM) today announced that Glass, Lewis & Co., a leading independent proxy advisory firm, has recommended that GM shareholders vote FOR ALL of the Board’s nominees and AGAINST the Greenlight proposal at the Company’s 2017 Annual Meeting of Shareholders to be held on June 6, 2017. View the full article
  17. No dirt roads where you live?
  18. For future reference the procedure for draining transient voltage is to disconnect both battery cables from the battery and briefly touch both cable ends together. The battery being disconnected for over 30 minutes will do the same as touching the cable ends together.
  19. 900-1000 RPM is great! Be sure to test the ISC with the A/C on. Set the A/C to 60 and manually select low fan. Let it idle and watch the ISC. It should increase idle just before the A/C compressor engagement and reduce idle just prior to A/C clutch disengagement. Hmmm, sorry, don't know where I got the extra mileage at That's all good news, hope it stays "fixed" ...
  20. just to update this Although I have not been able to engage abs or traction control it has been working fine with no lights or codes. Tires are pretty new with about 1500 miles on them, probably why I cant lose traction. Takes off like a rocket though. Oil light never came back after changing the sender. Happy travels
  21. Possible success with ISC !...maybe ! updated

  22. Hi OldCadTech, guess what ! Possible progress ! BTW the mileage is only like 53K miles Not in the hundred thousands...1992 Eldorado TC 4.9 liter engine. OK, so yesterday I disconnected the battery and let it sit overnight and some...I also pulled 'ON' the headlamp switch for a minute to discharge some capacitor I read about in this forum or other Caddy forum... So, late this afternoon I decided to have at it again with the idle learn. I reconnected the battery. This time I started up the engine momentarily in order to allow me to turn OFF the AC- for certain ! (as we know, the AC goes on automatically after the battery is reconnected). Curiously this time upon first engine on, the idle did not surge way high to 2K and stay at 1500 but gradually went down to about 1100...BUT I shut the engine off quickly. I waited over a minute and began your idle learn procedure using 40 second intervals rather than 20 second minimums. Upon engine 'ON' ,it behaved nicely and shot up to about 2 K RPM for a second and shot down to around 1100 and slowly settled around 1K rpm as the engine idled for 14 minutes in PARK. I shut engine off and waited about 2 minutes and then turned the engine ON again. It behaved similarly and was doing well. I took it for a short spin around the block several times and it was not sailing and the RPM would dunk drop and settle the idle to around 900 RPM after coming to a stop in DRIVE. (I recognized this as normal and good) Later I parked and shut off engine and waited a couple minutes. Turned it on and it behaved well. In Park at operating temperature it idles at 1K steady. In Drive at op temp and at a standstill it is at around 900 RPM. Its been so long since I drove it that this seems about correct with what I recall from this car' idle and RPM behavior.... The pintel remained as before with the jam nut and the length set same as the original factory stetting. I will see what tomorrow brings since I have been down this road before with a full day of good behavior with the old ISC followed by Check engine light etc... I was thinking of using a tiny spot of white laquer paint at the back of the jam nut in order to keep it fixed so it does not vibrate loose. If all goes well for an extended period of time, I may brave installing the original pintel once I get the 'penny tool' and feel confident that the problem is resolved. We shall see what tomorrow brings !! Picture of the original pintel. You can see the cleaner threads that were inside the plunger and the darker 9 external threads making up the standardized (for me) length of the pintel.
  23. "These claims are baseless and we will vigorously defend ourselves. The Duramax Diesel Chevrolet Silverado and GMC Sierra comply with all U.S. EPA and CARB emissions regulations." View the full article
  24. In the photo above the feeler gauges, a couple of posts back, it appears the plunger is retracted.You should be fine as long as the pintles are the same length. I'm not too concerned with the gap measurement, but the pintle should require a considerable amount of force to turn. it is very difficult to relay in writing the torque amount because there is not a torque specification for it but yes, you would have to hold it very tightly or do it while it is mounted on the t-body. Once again, if you have the ISC off the t-body start the engine and make sure the engine will idle. Cadillac tech support ALWAYS wanted 525 RPM as the magical number but as long as it idled "somewhere" close to that, it worked in the real world. If I remember correctly you stated that the vehicle has 144000 miles on it. It is possible the throttle shaft is wobbly causing TPS inaccuracy. I too am perplexed as to why the initial installation worked but once the key was cycled it came back with the code and high idle. BUT, you must verify everything is operating as designed. With the ISC removed look at your TPS again, what is the throttle angle at closed throttle?
  25. My wife said she thought it wasn't as cold, but nothing definitive. When I jump it do this test today, I'll toggle A/C to see if its squeeking running, engaged. Thanks for that. What a pain!
  26. Hello OldCadTech, you are correct about the jam nut. I figured as such that if it were needed it would have been part of the original set up. Curiously the internal threading of the plungers seem to be a sort of heli coil. It appears to have a tighter fit deeper into the plunger. The pintel that came with the new unit was too long. A friend who is very good with detail, used a mechanical caliper to precisely measure the original pintel length and dimensions as it appeared on the factory setting on the old unit and cut the longer pintel to size allowing enough thread to enter the plunger exactly as the original had.. That exact length did allow for some rotational tightness inside the plunger (without a jam nut). The gap at the factory setting later turned out to be more than 0.03" with the ISC fully retracted. (We removed the original pintel from the old unit as well using a heat gun on the pintel head. It was on there tight. Maybe with loktite.) I unscrewed the new pintel to reach the 0.03 gap, and it was then kind of loose inside the pintel. Ergo the jam nut. The original pintel was also tried for fit and it screwed in very finger tight just shy of any gap at all during that first ISC full retraction. I would have had to use a tool to tighten it another 3-4 threads and I did not want to commit to that because it is a very tight rotational fit at that point and, at that point, I would have to hold the plunger shaft body with a protected plier while tightening the pintel so as not to put alot of tension on the plunger and internal gears. (my reasoning). The unusual thing is that, subsequently, I could not get the new ISC to retract using the method outlined previously. THAT boggles me. I followed the idle learn procedure methodically and the AC was not on nor did I touch the steering wheel or throttle pedal. I ran it 13 minutes in Park after the final routine and operating temp was reached (190F).
  27. Your a/c compressor (clutch) is unengaged when the engine is off so you are not going to see that pulley locked-up with engine-off/belt off if you have an internally broken compressor. Do you recall whether the a/c produced cold air when you were running your test (and you were getting the squeaking belt scenario). Just some random thoughts; good luck with your repair.
  28. Just put the belts back on and tried to fire it up again. Battery is dying. it turns over, but it has no cranking power and slowed down to almost nothing during the start cycle. Without doing "swaptronics" I'm forced to believe that its the alternator first, and A/C second. On a neighbors suggestion, I'm going to jump it off and start one last time. I'm going to take a spray bottle and spray just a bit on the bare pulley and see if the squeaking stops. Theory is that if the belt is bad too, then the squeaking subsides. It may make it easier to hear and confirm which component is causing the problem. But the car does have 110K miles without a new alternator or belts, so I'd garner it wouldn't hurt anything to do replace, other than as you suggested if another component is bad, don't waste time replacing belts yet.
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