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  3. sprucegoose

    Upgraded to a CTS!

  4. Yesterday
  5. Also read through this discussion: Check for fuel in pressure regulator vacuum hose. If fuel is present, replace the fuel pressure regulator assembly. If a problem is found, repair as necessary.
  6. By the way, if anyone has preferences as to fuel filter options or fuel pressure regulator options, please offer those and the rationale. I don't necessarily love AC Delco and AC Delco only. I have used Mahle filters in the past and this one looks interesting. Strangely, it says it has a fuel pressure regulator, but I know that's not the same thing as the actual fuel pressure regulator (which I can only find aftermarket at this juncture).
  7. Thanks. Anything that's easy to check and cheap as far as taking a "throw parts at it approach" is worth doing at this juncture. I want to be able to drive along again without this nagging fear that "this drive" will be the one where whatever it is that's causing this will finally crap out entirely. My gut tells me that if it's one of those two it's way more likely to be the fuel pressure regulator as I'd expect a clogged or partially clogged fuel filter to be a lot less intermittent in nature. Never hurts to put a new one on, though.
  8. I suggest you check the fuel pressure regulator, and the fuel filter.
  9. Hello All, It's been a while since I've had time to be a regular visitor and contributor, but I'm back again because I have a problem that is driving me insane and that I am convinced is going to be a "simple fix" once the root cause is known. The car in question is a 1989 Sedan de Ville that's in marvelous condition and has been my daily driver. About 2 months ago while driving along at approximately 35-40 MPH I could feel a very sudden, sharp, and brief hesitation. The way I describe it is as a "semi-miss" as I've experienced a car with a true persistent miss before and it is far more transient than that. At the time if you stopped everything consistently felt normal at idle. As some time went by, idle would be intermittently rough, but you never knew when. At the time this generally happened when the car had not been running for too terribly long. I have had the car looked at, but as an amateur mechanic even I know that if you can't get the car to do whatever it's been doing when you have your hands on it, and for long enough to be able to diagnose it, it's impossible to fix and that's the situation I'm in. As time has progressed there has been some change. Now this behavior does not seem to happen at all when the car is cold or just beginning to warm up after a few miles of driving but only when hot. The speed at which it occurs has changed, too, and has gone up the scale to generally not kicking in unless I'm going between 50-60 MPH, up to just under 70 MPH. One can force the stumbling to disappear either by letting off the accelerator or by giving the car just a bit more gas to speed it up. The latest change is that after the car is hot and this behavior has exhibited itself while driving the idle is more frequently becoming quite rough. I have had the car throw an E30 code twice now when this has occurred if it gets bad enough, but it is always transient. If the car is turned off and turned on again it consistently resolves. It will, however, hold on until or unless the car is "power cycled." [There was also a stored E55 (I think, I don't have my notes right now, but it was definitely an E5X) code, but I believe that was historical, and it has not been thrown again after clearing everything.] Over the last year or so I have replaced the distributor, spark plugs, coil, and idle speed control motor (as I had been getting E30s in cold weather - the idle speed would remain excessively high for longer than it should have). All of these except the idle speed control motor were in place, and for many months and miles, prior to this behavior appearing and the idle speed control motor was an attempt by me to see if that would fix the issue, but it hasn't. Someone out there has likely experienced this exact behavior, or something very similar, and will recognize the root cause, or so I'm hoping. Any assistance in getting this resolved would be appreciated. Brian
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  11. i think it's OK so far since cleaning up the grounds on the fender and ECU. it's been rainy and humid for months. everyone with an SRX should check the ground on the right front fender. they didn't even scrape off the paint, it seems. thanks for being here. Everyone says dump this caddy, it's all problems. but it runs well and i like it..
  12. sprucegoose

    Upgraded to a CTS!

    Really loved my 03 SLS, but at 174k it was starting to show her age. Always wanted a CTS, was hooked after I did that V-Series Performance lab back in 2011! This isn’t a CTS-V, but a good fit for me... it’s a 09 CTS-4 with the 3.6 direct injection motor. Two previous owners were brothers and treated this creampuff with meticulous care! It has 98k on it, but has the appearance of practically a new vehicle! My kinda purchase for sure! Will update with pics soon! Have to resize before posting
  13. General Motors Co. has mobilized all of its vehicle brands, as well as OnStar, GM Financial and its Customer Care and Aftersales team to help customers impacted by Hurricane Florence recover as quickly as possible. View the full article
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  15. General Motors has once again been included on the Dow Jones Sustainability Indices for corporate sustainability leadership. This marks the second year the company has been selected for the World Index and its fourth consecutive year as the only automaker on the North American Index. View the full article
  16. Rock, The Northstar? The crossover was off, but it wasn't a problem. I'll post a photo I have one on a stand in the garage
  17. How did you mount it? IIRC I had issues with 1 bolt so I never put mine on stand. I wanted to, It may have been due to the crossover. It has been a few years. I did my 350 on it without much issue. Could use some reinforcing in my opinion though. Being afraid of tipping the stand over is not a good feeling when you want to rotate the engine on it.
  18. I am beginning to see a need for electrical diagnostics experts as these cars age. What do you think about that?
  19. it happened again. turn the key, no turnover. so i cleaned the ground to the ECM and the body ground. fiddled and now it's running again. it's a replacement ECM from flagship One. lifetime warranty. It just doesn't seem probable that an ECM would fail intermittently. i can send it in for testing. we'll see if the clean grounds resolve this. otherwise i'm dumping this vehicle..
  20. I am not a big Harbor Freight fan but I bought their engine stand and it was well made. I used it with the Northstar I must note, and the 429 is heavier, but I thought I would pass that along
  21. If you could beg, borrow or steal a borescope it might tell the story in a flash.
  22. The motor was stored with the spark plug in it. He said it was a remanufactured engine so I don't think its a big problem just have to get it loose, If Necessary I do have some automotive experience so tearing it down should not be a problem. Also I checked online you can buy a engine stand from between $25 to $50 bucks 2 ton, so I might go in that direction.
  23. Lance, If the engine was stored without spark plugs in a high humidity area it could have serious rusting and pitting of the cylinder walls. That said, You may WANT to dis-assemble the engine. You'll need to get the engine in a more stable position, either on an engine stand or on the floor/ground where you can get some torque on the crank. You can rent an engine stand at some auto parts stores, or invest in one. They are pretty much a necessity in engine swaps, TWO of them.... Of course there IS a fine line between the right amount of torque and too much, so, as @Bruce Nunnally stated there is an amount of luck involved. A ROCKING MOTION is what you want to create. Unfortunately the timing chain will be working against you because of the slack in the chain and gears. One option and the safest to prevent engine component damage is to disassemble the engine, clean, lube and re-assemble. Depending on your mechanical experience and tool level that may not be an option for you. As a side note, it doesn't require a lot of specialty tools to dis-assemble an engine and re-assemble it, again, most auto parts stores will rent them. Another option is to take the engine to a reputable, and trusted repair shop and have the engine work done professionally. This option may not sound like the best economical choice but it could be in the long run.
  24. I hear you, you will get it, I think @OldCadTech gave you some good advice. Let us know how it goes.
  25. That was my concern about the torque, I didn't wanna put too much pressure on it and break Something. We can get it lowered and stabilized so we can Put some torque to it. But my main concern was to get lubricated first.
  26. If it is hanging you may not be able to get enough force on the crank to break it loose. Can you put it on a stand?
  27. OldcadTech It's frozen solid, I put some Marvel mystery oil in it this morning and l have it hanging on a engine hoist, but It's not level. I'm going to wait a couple of days and see what happens. Also it is a complete engine that I bought from a gentleman, he has it sitting in Storage for a couple of years
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